The Towns of Algarve are Enwrapped with the Aura of the Moors

posted on: Jan 27, 2021

By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer

“It’s like a fairytale town.  Look at these fantastic buildings!  I can’t believe my eyes!”  My travelling companion was expressing both our thoughts as we gazed down from a high point on Albufeira’s gleaming Moorish-style white houses with their minaret-like chimneys.  They appeared to be jewels set in the hillside, cascading down to the clear waters of the Atlantic.  

Like thousands of tourists who annually visit this Algarve resort, we had been captivated for a week by this Moorish charm.  Despite having come to enjoy Albufeira’s mild climate and sandy beaches, the Arab-inspired architecture of its modern abodes held us spellbound. 

A once picturesque fishing town with sandstone cliffs overlooking a roomy beach, Albufeira has been developed into the tourist capital of Algarve (from the Arabic – al-gharb – (the west)) – Portugal’s leading resort area.  Its North African-style structures and lush countryside, first flourishing under Arab rule, add a romantic, intriguing and mystic air to its soothing sun and sands.  One of the last cities to fall to the Portuguese Reconquesta, it has retained much of its historic charm.

Walking toward our auto, we passed a painter busy putting on canvas the Moorish silhouette of the town below.  Noting that we were admiring his work, he smiled and pointed to the eye-catching buildings and said in perfect English, “They are the inspiration of painters, photographers and poets.”  After talking to him, we found that he was an American who had been seduced by the town’s enchantment.

From this exquisite resort, seemingly made for the camera, we traversed a fertile plain on our way to the neighbouring historic city of Silves.  As we neared, we could see, towering on the hilltop and dominating the town, the majestic red sandstone Moorish castle 

When we stopped by these impressive ramparts, a strange feeling that we were entering the Moorish world of long ago overwhelmed me.  I could almost visualize the Moors guarding the walls of what was once considered an unconquerable citadel.

However, as happens to many impregnable fortresses, one day it fell.  In 1242 A.D. the conquering Portuguese armies, aided by the Crusaders from northern Europe, occupied the citadel. Today, this once Muslim stronghold is considered the most notable work of military architecture inherited from the Arabs in the Iberian Peninsula.  

This impressive Moorish bastion, built in the 9th century, dominated the magnificent city of Shilb – the present day Silves.  Originally established by the Phoenicians on the north bank of the Arade River, it was expanded by the Arabs and became their capital of Algarve.  In its golden age, it was a town of wealth and refinement.  Sailing ships carried, up its Arade River, treasures from the four corners of the then known world.  

It was described in the 13th century as a beautiful metropolis filled with handsome buildings and markets, overflowing with a great abundance of merchandise.  At its zenith, the city with its population of 30,000 was larger and more important than Lisbon and was considered the strongest western outpost of the Muslim part of the Iberian Peninsula.  As a centre of Arab culture, it ranked second to Cordova – the capital of Moorish Spain.

When Shilb fell so did the empire of the Arabs in Portugal.  After the Christians occupied the city, they destroyed much of the town and massacred almost all the inhabitants.  After its destruction, it never again reached its former size or glory.  By the 16th century the population had dwindled to a mere 140. 

Today, it is a simple provincial outpost of some 35,000. Only the impressive Arab Castle known as Alcazaba – from the Arabic al-qasaba (the fortress); the nearby 13th century Cathedral, which contains remnants of a former mosque; and a gate from the former Arab walls, remain.  

The dark silhouette of the castle crowning the hill, without words, relays to visitors the tale of Shilb’s proud history.  Now, only a restored tourist site, it still retains, besides its ramparts, two enormous underground cisterns and storehouses which, in times of war, were utilized to store food and water.  Inside, the flowers of the jacaranda and oleander soften the atmosphere, creating an alluring air of contentment.   

From its wall and turrets there is a superb view of the surrounding orchards and the tiled roofs of Silves, spreading down the hillside to the Arade River.  At night, visitors should view the citadel when it is floodlit – a breathtaking sight.  Unlike any other town or village in Algarve, Silves lives to some extent in the bygone centuries filled with echoes of its Muslim past.  

Yet even though Albuferia and Silves still retain much of the Moorish influences, there are other towns of Algarve that carry the same. Faro derives its name from faru, the Arabic word for a lighthouse and the last city lost by the Arabs marking the end of Muslim rule in Portugal.  Only a few Moorish gateways and parts of the walls survive.  With a population of about 60,000 it is the largest city and today’s capital of Algarve.  Also, it has become an important trading centre with an international airport and good port facilities.  Surrounded by almond, carob, cork and fig trees, and whitewashed villages, it reminds visitors of a North African setting. 

Loulé, which has managed to preserve its oriental flavour, is situated in one of the loveliest parts of Algarve.  It is a city of sparkling white houses adorned with attractive terraces, parts of 12th century ramparts and colourful pierced Moorish-type chimneys, minaret-like in appearance.  Made from mortar and plaster, they beautify not only Loulé but almost all the farmhouses and towns in southern Portugal. 

From Moorish times talented craftsmen and a rich folkloric tradition, remain.  Folklore is cherished as it was in Moorish times and the artisans continue to produce intricate works of art.  Every year a colourful carnival is held for three days and, from the hands of craftsmen, masterpieces of copper, tin and mirror decorated harnesses, fill the marketplace. In the same fashion as Loulé, the older sections of Olhao and Tavira with their kasbah-style architecture, neat-looking white houses and narrow streets appear more North African than European.  The buildings are blindingly white with ridges accented in blue, and they are all crowned with the charming Moorish chimneys. 

Olhao with its flat roofed cube-shaped glittering white homes has a strange beauty and is often labelled ‘a town of cubes’.  Tavira, one of the most pleasant towns in Algarve, lies in a well-cultivated countryside.  It is a beautiful and picturesque rather Moorish looking town with delightful gardens and a rusty expanse of North African type rooftops.  Its castle, built on the ruins of a mosque, and whose garden perfumes the air, is a true reminder of Muslim times.  

As we made our way back to Albuferia, I was in a dream-like stupor thinking of the town’s Moorish inspired architecture and ways of its people – still carrying much Arab flavour.  My friend was somewhat amused, “Wake up!  Albufeira and its modern tourist facilities are the reality of life.”

The road wound its way through orchards of grapefruit, lemons, oranges and pomegranates – all introduced by the Arabs and still carrying in Portuguese their Arabic names su;ch as toronja – grapefruit, derived from the Arabic (turunj) and roma – pomegranate, from Arabic rummaan.

   All around us the rich fruit fields of the fertile valley made a perfect background to the immaculately white farmhouses surrounded by almond and carob trees.  The honey-sweet scent of rosemary and rockrose intoxicated our senses on that delightful drive from the haunting past of Silves to the pleasures of Albufeira’s present. 

That late afternoon, relaxing on our hotel balcony overlooking a modern swimming pool and the stunning whitewashed homes below, I reflected about Silves and its glorious history.  Yet, as I gazed beyond on the modern Moorish-like city with its tourist-crowded beaches below, I pondered on how much Portugal had inherited from the days when the Arabs were masters in this land.  

In the centuries after the re-conquest when religious bigotry was at its height, the Portuguese tried to erase all Arab-Muslim traces in their land.  They did not.  Instead, the aura of the Moors remains enrapt within the towns of Algarve.