The Scent of Oud 101: Why You Should Make the Switch

posted on: Nov 3, 2020

By: Safa M. Qureshi/Arab America Contributing Writer

The scent is a central feature of olfactory cognition. That means your brain is able to recall whether it has smelled an aroma before, and sometimes even where it was experienced. When I smell Oud (literally means sticks), I am reminded of Marymount University (my alma mater), the first place where I was exposed to the smell. Marymount University had a huge population of Khaleejis (Gulf Arabs), and as some of you may know, Khaleejis are known to pack on layers of Oud. This scent is not just about tradition, but also “part of the DNA that makes up the people of the Gulf.”

How Is Oud Formed?

Oud is produced when the tropical agar (aquilaria) tree is infested with a particular type of mold, known as phialophora parasitica. To protect itself from this parasitic mold, the tree produces a special fragrant resin. 

Its distinctive smell comes when the heartwood becomes diseased with a very specific mold, leaving it dark, oily, and incredibly dense. It becomes so dense that if you place it in water, it won’t float. It takes at least 40 years for a tree to harvest a good amount of Oud.

Did you know that about 110 pounds of wood from an agar tree is needed to create about 3/4 of a cup of Oud? This is one of the reasons why Oud is so expensive and is also known as “liquid gold”. Fewer than 2% of wild agar trees produce it.

Where Was Oud Discovered?

It was first discovered in South East Asia, before spreading to the Arab world. During the Vietnam War, the Americans dropped so many bombs in the forests that innumerable aquilaria trees were wounded and thus began to produce agarwood. “An amazing thing, that something so evil could eventually produce something so beautiful”, says Francis Chag Naud, an Oud dealer who has lived in Vietnam for 25 + years.

History of Oud:

Known as the “wood of the gods” by ancient cultures, it is one of the world’s rarest commodities. Culturally, in the Arab world, Oud wood is burned like incense as a sign of respect and hospitality when guests enter the house.

Oud wasn’t just used in perfumes, it was also prized as a medicine for many health complaints. Its use extends back to Ancient Egypt, where it was applied to the dead to embalm bodies during the mummification process. In addition, the Ancient Egyptians have been making perfumes as far back as 3,000 BC. According to ancient legend, Cleopatra had the sails of her boat soaked in sweet-smelling essential oils, so that Mark Antony would be overwhelmed by her scent before even laying eyes on her.

In other cultures, Oud is said to have a magical way of attracting new loves and pushing away evil forces and its potency is mentioned in Indian Vedas (religious Hindu texts).

What Does It Smell Like?

The first whiff of Oud seems nasty to most. However, if you can overcome your initial disgust and have the courage to spray it onto your skin, you can smell its evolution into something entirely different. That is the beauty of good quality Oud scents. Some people say Oud smells “fecal,” while others say Oud perfumes smell “animalistic” and dirty.

Just remember that the smell varies from one person to another, and is known to be an acquired taste. Some smell a burning Oud as spicy, while others may sense softer woody notes.

How Much Does It Cost?

As with anything popular in the land of oil, Oud fragrances often come with a hefty price tag. But the expense is often justified by the lengthy process it takes to produce the ingredient. Believe it or not, high-quality Oud can be more expensive than gold. “A kilo of Oud can be as expensive as a kilo of gold, sometimes, even more, depending on the rarity of the tree it was cut from,” said Siraj Hassan Gawai. “I witnessed a kilo of Indian Oud being sold for nearly $129,316 (AED 475,000).”

You can also opt for the more westernized Ouds from brands like Tom Ford or Lancome, which range from $130-400 for a 3.4 oz bottle. 

Why Try It?

There’s a reason it is so popular. It is one of the most long-lasting fragrant scents, and a little goes a long way. It’s sweet, smoky, earthy, and sexy, Oud is all about layers. Once you’ve tried oud, it’s hard to go back. It has such a powerful and warm aroma. If you work in an office environment, it’ll give you immediate attention and maybe even a sense of authority. Once you get accustomed to its velvety spiciness, it’s hard to go back to your regular perfume or colognes. 

How To Wear It

Men typically wear the fragrance independently and women will mix it with scents like rose and jasmine to add a feminine and seductive flare.

In the Middle East, the fragrance is very personal. It’s all about layering fragrances so that your scent is completely different from anyone else’s. Typically, women will start with an Oud base, as this is the heaviest scent, and so it clings to the skin for longer. They then layer lighter fragrances, like orange blossom, jasmine, and rose to infuse their own signature scent.

The secret to layering fragrances is to layer them in order of intensity. The base should be an intense fragrance, which is then combined with lighter notes. For example, a base note of Oud would complement a middle note of rose, embellished with a top note of jasmine. 

Western Brands to Try

Oud has always been a unisex scent. Today, even the most luxurious brands have concocted their own blends from Oud. Tom Ford’s Oud Wood was one of the first, followed by Christian Dior’s Oud Ispahan and Armani Privé’s Oud Royal.

As the holiday season approaches, give a loved one the gift of this musky must-have, with a little help from a list of my personal favorites. It’s time to get in the mood for Oud!

For Men:

1. Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford 
2. Versace Pour Homme Oud Noir by Versace
3. Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior
4. Les Absolus d’Orient Santal Royal by Guerlain
5. Oud Royal by Armani

For Women:

1. Roses Musk by Montale
2. Cafe Rose by Tom Ford
3. Velvet Rose & Oud Cologne Intense by Jo Malone
4. Rose de Grasse by Aerin
5. Amber Musk by Aerin

Unisex:

1. L’Autre Ôud by Lancôme
2. Ôud Bouquet by Lancôme
3. Rose Oud by Kilian 
4. Ombre Nomade by Louis Vuitton
5. Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

On multiple occasions, I have been stopped and asked about what perfume I had on. Most recently, I was followed out of Shake Shack at Tysons Corner Mall. I was wearing Aerin’s Rose de Grasse scent, my signature scent since 2016.

It’s amazing how your scent can be so captivating. One could be dressed down, wearing something as low maintenance as a tracksuit… but as soon as you layer on the oud, it’s like you’ve got on a whole different outfit. 

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