Loading ...The Gentrification of Arab Foods in the U.S.
By: Monica Haddad / Arab America Contributing Writer
When you walk down the aisles of Whole Foods, Target, and Trader Joes, you may notice the sea of questionable flavored bean concoctions labeled “hummus”. Chocolate dessert “hummus”, barbecue “hummus”, everything bagel “hummus”, “hummus” where chickpeas aren’t even an ingredient like sweet potato “hummus”. Unfortunately these are all real products I have seen at the supermarket and what started with hummus has extended its reach to other traditional Arab foods. The foods Arab Americans grew up eating and even faced discrimination and bullying for eating have now been rebranded as health foods. Can what is being done to Arab foods in America be considered a form of gentrification, commodification, or cultural appropriation?
The Culture of Sharing
An important part of Arab culture is our culture of sharing. Traditional Arab meals have always been about sharing—whether it’s sharing bread together or offering hummus to guests. Food in Arab culture carries community and hospitality. In the Arab world, food is intertwined with the rituals of gathering and celebrating. This culture of generosity and community has been an integral part of the Arab identity for centuries.
However, in the U.S., these same foods that were once largely reserved for immigrant and refugee communities are increasingly being packaged and sold in ways that strip them of their cultural roots and significance. As they are commodified and gentrified, the communal and inclusive nature of these foods often gets lost in translation.
Health Food Craze
The growing popularity of Middle Eastern foods in the U.S. can largely be attributed to the rise of the health food craze, where consumers are looking for healthy alternatives to the highly processed foods that are a part of the Western diet. Hummus, for example, has long been praised for its health benefits as it’s rich in protein, fiber, and healthy fats. This makes it a highly attractive option for people looking to eat “clean”.
Once foods like hummus, falafel, and tabbouleh gained mainstream attention, companies quickly capitalized on the demand. These foods, once staples of Arab cuisine, are now labeled as “health foods” and marketed to an entirely different demographic. This transformation is not without its complexities. The commodification of these foods follows the same predictable pattern, ethnic foods are stripped of their cultural context, marketed as “health-” or “superfoods”, and sold in a way that appeals to white, middle-class consumers, often distorting or altering the dishes in the process.The gentrification of Arab foods highlights broader issues of commodification, cultural appropriation, and the reshaping of food to fit a “White American” palate.
Foods that Have Been Gentrified
Several traditional Arab foods have fallen victim to this gentrification process. Hummus, in particular, is one of the most notable examples. A simple but beautiful spread of chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, and spices, hummus is now available in an array of “flavors” in grocery stores around the country, many of which bear little resemblance to the authentic dish. In recent years, we’ve seen the emergence of “chocolate hummus,” a perversion of the traditional recipe.
Falafel, the crispy, bean fritter, has been a staple of street food throghout the Arab world for generations. Falafel is beloved by many Arabs as a tasty, easy, and filling dish. However, in recent years in the U.S., falafel has been taken from its humble roots and turned into a “cool” vegetarian option in overpriced American cafes and trendy vegan restaurants. Falafel has even been rebranded as a “health food” and can be found made with avocado, quinoa, and other ingredients that are not a part of traditional falafel, stripping it of the fundamentals of its identity.
Another example is Tabbouleh, the fresh salad made with cracked wheat, parsley, tomatoes, onions, olive oil, and lemon juice, has been a favorite in many Arab households. Its combination of grains and fresh herbs and vegetables made it a great side dish, often enjoyed with guests during the summer. However, tabbouleh has been repackaged as a trendy “superfood salad” in grocery stores and health-conscious restaraunts. Tabbouleh is often reinterpreted with quinoa or kale instead of cracked wheat and most times the name of the dish is changed into something like “mediterranean salad”, stripping it of its Lebanese or Syrian roots to fit the “clean eating” trend.
Repercussions of Commodification on Food
The gentrification and commodification of Arab foods have broad repercussions. On one hand, it has introduced Arab food culture to a broader audience, which could be argued that it has led to a greater appreciation and understanding of Arab cultures. However, the process of commodification is not without its downsides as well.
A major consequence is the erasure of the cultural significance of these foods. As these foods become “trendy,” they are often rebranded to appeal to a mainstream, white American audience. Ingredients are tweaked, recipes are altered, and even things like the packaging are designed to distance the food from its cultural roots. As a result, many of these foods lose their connection to the traditions, rituals, and stories that make them so meaningful.
Moreover, this commodification often leads to the exploitation of immigrant Arab communities. While the foods are embraced by mainstream society, the very people who created and consumed them are often left on the sidelines, and usually excluded from the economic benefits.
Conclusion
The gentrification of Arab foods in the U.S. reflects broader trends in cultural appropriation, commodification, and the rebranding of Arab culture for the mainstream market. While it is encouraging to see Arab cuisine gaining the popularity and the recognition it deserves, the process of turning foods like hummus into “health foods” often strips them of their cultural context and meaning. For these dishes to be truly appreciated, it is integral to recognize and respect their cultural origins, honoring the traditions, people, and histories that make them so special.
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