Omani Kummah and its Long-Lasting Tradition of Women Weavers

posted on: Oct 4, 2023

By: Menal Elmaliki / Arab America Contributing Writer

What is a Kummah, its importance, and where is it worn?

In the old souq Omani men flaunt their kummah, a traditional cap, and browse through the market for new ones. There is one of every color and each one is ornately designed, ranging from florals to mosaics, from intricate and complex to more subtle and simple patterns. The designs are influenced by Islamic art, flowers, and architectural structures.

Every cap is unique and becomes a personal statement to the one wearing it. It is an individualized sense of style. Kummah is Oman’s traditional and national attire and it is worn with the dishdasha which is a long and elegant robe or dress. The kummah’s structure is distinct because of its high walls and fat top; it is also made out of thick fabric which is used to keep the heads of Omanis cool under the hot sun. It is different from a kufi which is a thinly threaded muslim cap. 

The Kummah was popularized by Sultan Qaboos, who wore the kummah in public during his reign from 1970 until his death in 2020. Handmade kummah’s are inherited and more expensive and flamboyant and they are rented for special occasions such as weddings. The Kummah is a part of Omani identity, wearing it is a symbol of patriotism, pride of Oman’s rich and diverse history. This “stitched crown,” is a symbol of pride for not only the one that wears it but the one that made it. Oman has a long and old tradition of women weavers that still lives on today. 

The Tradition of Women Weaving and Making Kummahs

The fabric is telling of not only Oman’s history and culture but of a tradition of women who hand make kummahs. In the modern era, this tradition is slowly dying as current fashion occupies the mind of the younger generation of Omani women. Today, the mass production of kummahs with automatic sowing machine is also a threat to the tradition of women weavers whose skills have been passed down generations.

Safiya Ahmad Al Lawati is an kummah weaver, she starts her day making kummah’s from scratch, a process that takes months to finish. The making of a cap “requires true craftsmanship” that takes years to master. She explains, “it is a long and complicated process, and it can take up to a month or more depending on how elaborate the decoration is.”

People like Safiqya Ahmad Al Lawati believe in reviving and keeping the tradition of women embroidering kummahs. She started a non-profit that helps Omani women learn the craftsmanship that takes years to master and is an administrator at the National Museum of Oman. Some of the women who depend on the charity, she adds, “are just entering the kummah business, and I am here to help, as it is a complex process. You have to ensure that the intricate patterns match and that the design flows.” She like other women, enjoy the process of creating a piece of Oman with their hands, it makes her job all the more special.

The cap is important because it is part of Oman’s “everyday dress,” and what is equally important are the women that create it. Omani women creatively thread new designs on white, showing off their skills to make a beautiful kummah. Female family members create kummah’s for the males in the family and have the opportunity to exemplify their creativity and artistic talent, placing a piece of themselves on the cap that men wear proudly on their heads everyday. This highlights the connectedness of man and women in society, their dynamic relationship and how one cannot succeed without the other. The designs displayed on kummahs are not only beautiful but they show that despite women being behind the scenes without them there would be no Omani tradition.

Many kummah’s are inherited, passed down from father to son and made by the female members of the family. Women begin the complicated process of the embroidered cap by sewing designs into the thick white calico, the technique is similar to broderie anglaise. A needle incorporates features such as embroidery, cutwork, and lace. Many women stitch the lace or embroidery in full or half circles, a technique which is called tanjeem. Every thread she weaves is special, as she threads the soft fabric between her fingers she not only demonstrates her skills but her strong pride in Omani heritage.

The Kummah is a reminder of Oman’s African and Indian influence. Author John Gillow of African Textiles, “believes it was the Omanis who introduced the kummah to East Africa.” Many historians believe that the kummah was brought to Africa from the region of Oman. It was believed to influence the East Africa Kofia. The kummah became popularized in east Africa in the region of Zanzibar which was a former colony of Oman. 

To preserve the tradition of Omani women making kummah’s, Oman passed legislation to protect them against “cheap, machine-made imitations so that only caps made in conformity with the regulations can be labeled and sold as authentic kummahs in Oman.” Hand-made kummah’s sport a unique design while the machine made ones are done with standard designs. Despite regulations, many women are struggling to keep up with demand as the process is long-winded and the kummah’s are in high demand seeing that Omani men collect dozens over the years. 

In the souq, the best and high quality kummah’s are hand-made. The handmade kummahs are typically sold for OMR60 and the machine-sewn ones are sold for as little as OMR3. The more intricate the design the more deeper the connection between the wearer and maker. As men show off their kummahs they are also showing off the skills of women. The beauty is in design and the kummah grants Omanis a sense of belonging to not only to those who wear it but the hands that created it.

Check out Arab America’s blog here!