In recent years Middle Eastern fashion designers have started to come to international prominence. Ellie Saab and Zuhair Murad, both from Lebanon, regularly dress Hollywood celebrities. Buoyed by this success, several zeitgeisty fashion lines have sprung up across the region. In Jordan, Nafsika Skourti’s closest analogue is Tania George, a more casual, pop-art inspired brand that repeats graphic prints (a sand-filled hourglass, Frida Kahlo’s face) across matching sets.
Local retailers have started to adapt. “Two or three years ago these young designers would have been selling online only, on social media,” said Susan Sabet, publisher of Pashion, a Middle East fashion magazine based in Egypt. “Retailers wouldn’t stock them because they wanted the big international brands. Now these stores have realised that these kids have a lot of followers and clients, so stocking them will attract traffic.” Other young brands that have benefited from a robust social media following include Reemami, from the United Arab Emirates, makes structural blazers and dresses, and Mrs Keepa, based in Dubai, which makes loud crop tops and trousers.
The Skourti sisters grew up in Amman, looked after by their maternal grandparents while their mother worked as a trademark and patent agent. (Their father was Greek, and met their Jordanian mother in Germany when doing graduate degrees, but divorced before Stephanie was born.) Stephanie and Nafsika grew up around what they call “sheltered Arabian fairytale princesses” whose fathers bought them everything their hearts desired. “When we were younger, everybody was just everybody, it’s only when you become older that you become more aware,” said Nafsika. “Who has a boat, who doesn’t,” said Stephanie. “We definitely did not have a boat. Far from it.”
Their mother encouraged them to draw and paint instead of showering them with dolls and toys. “Every painting Naf did would go on the wall,” recalled Stephanie. She also nurtured their entrepreneurial spirit: before they were teenagers the sisters had written a business plan for a decorative-gift-box company (it failed to launch). Amman had only one cinema at the time, so their mother forked out for satellite TV. MTV served as what Nafsika calls a “cultural umbilical cord”, feeding the sisters 1990s pop culture in the form of Britney Spears, Celine Dion and Mariah Carey, who, they said, remain muses to this day.
Eager to experience life abroad, the sisters went to university in Britain. Stephanie studied law at Warwick and Nafsika did fashion design at Central Saint Martins. Nafsika’s final-year collection featured shirt dresses and garments that could have easily been worn on the street. But it wasn’t selected for the end-of-year showcase, denying Nafsika greater exposure to the fashion industry. “Mine wasn’t showcased because it was too wearable,” she said, rolling her eyes. “The silhouette was too close to the body, it wasn’t sculptural or avant-garde.”
So Nafsika made another plan: to get an internship at a fashion house in Europe and work her way up. Then her father called from Greece. The financial crisis had forced him to liquidate his family’s considerable assets – houses in the country, a BMW, a Mercedes-Benz – and he couldn’t bankroll his daughters anymore. “To get a job in fashion, you need to intern for free,” said Nafsika. “I didn’t have the luxury of working for free in London.”
Stephanie was a lawyer for Goldman Sachs in London at the time, and escaping to meditation retreats in Berlin. “I was like, ‘You’re travelling all the way over there to get away from your shitty job?’” recalled Nafsika. Stephanie left her job and moved to Berlin; Nafsika moved back to Amman and wallowed in her sense of failure. Urged by her uncle to do something, she started working for a local designer who taught her traditional Middle Eastern embroidery.
Then a well-connected childhood friend, Zamantha Haddad, asked Nafsika to make her a dress. She wanted to wear something unique to a winter wedding. “It ended up being a beautiful, floor-length, backless navy blue gown,” said Haddad. People took photos and posted them on social media. “Then my friends started calling: ‘I want a dress, I want a dress.’”
Around the same time, in 2014, a French talent scout happened upon photos of Nafsika’s Central Saint Martins collection and showed them to buyers at Opening Ceremony and Colette, two edgy fashion brands. The buyers were keen. The scout kept calling Nafsika, asking her to bring samples to Paris Fashion Week. Nafsika said she was too busy designing dresses for her friends and she couldn’t afford to travel to Paris. Haddad found out: “I showed up at her house at midnight with $2,000 and said, ‘Just go.’” Nafsika packed up the items that she thought had doomed her fashion career and corralled her sister into coming down from Berlin to help persuade the buyers. “She probably thought, ‘Paris Fashion Week, how bad can it be?’” laughed Nafsika. “I had her scrubbing off ‘Made in China’ labels off the clothes hangers.”
Haddad, who is 30, has since become a formal investor in the brand along with other Ammanites who are part of the Skourtis’ social circle. The brand has attracted more established international investors as well as backing from an Amman-based venture capital fund. Because of Jordan’s lack of fashion-design professionals, the Skourtis routinely fly in skilled experts from Europe and Asia for months at a time. The pattern cutter responsible for Meghan Markle’s Stella McCartney wedding gown in 2017, who is based in Britain, cut the fabric for one of Nafsika Skourti’s bestsellers: the revenge dress, a blood-red number with a thigh-high slit.