Loading ...A multicourse Moroccan adventure in Manitou Springs
Editor’s note: Fields writes a monthly review of vegan options at local restaurants.
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I’ve lived in Colorado Springs for just over two years. Each time I would drive into Manitou Springs, passing Moroccan restaurant Tajine Alami, I would think, “I should eat there” (Middle East and North Africa cuisine can be incredibly vegan friendly). On a recent Saturday night I finally followed through on that thought and I’m so glad I did.
The exterior of the restaurant appears worn and for good reason: It was built in 1902 and housed ballroom music and dancing for years – which explains the small bar to the left, the open foyer and large rooms, one on each wide. Transformed into a home-style Moroccan setting where guests are encouraged to remove their shoes to get comfortable, the ruby red dining room is filled with plush pillows and cushions surrounding small tables, ideal for relaxed dining when you crouch down to sit on the floor and await a multicourse meal.
Early on this particular Saturday night, we were one of the first to be seated (though the room filled throughout the evening). The rhythmic Andalusian music set the stage as we curled up on pillowy seats, barefoot, and washed our hands in the warm water from an ornate basin brought tableside by the host. This is an essential step in the dining experience because at Tajine Alami silverware is optional – one eats with the hands.
The six-course vegetarian feast ($27 per person) began with shorba, a peppery Arabic version of chicken noodle soup, without the chicken, to be sipped directly from the bowl. The rich red lentils and soft noodles are seasoned with warming cinnamon. The soup is served with khobz, a homemade honey wheat bread (vegans who avoid honey, take note). Shlada, the salad plate, is a contender for my favorite course of the entire meal. Crimson beets, parsley-packed tabbouleh, potatoes simply dressed in herbs, and toasted khobz are served on a large plate, with a bowl of hummus taking center stage. The creamiest chickpea puree I’ve ever tasted, the smoked paprika makes the traditional hummus ingredients – tahini, lemon juice, and garlic – pop. The small lettuce leaves are ideal to scoop up the tabbouleh, a Middle Eastern salad staple of bulgur, mint, onion, tomato and parsley.
At this point in the feast, the nonvegetarians would receive the chicken bastella – a traditional pie often associated with special occasions in Moroccan culture. The vegetarian bastella took special occasion to a whole new level: the huge, crispy phyllo-crusted pie, piping hot, was filled with almonds, raisins, pears and peaches coated in a thick, syrupy, cinnamon sauce and dusted with powdered sugar. Eating this sweet treat with our hands brought new meaning to the phrase “sticky fingers” (no fear, our host returned to the table with the warm water basin for a hand-washing intermission).
An unintentional dessert before dinner is something I can really get behind. But do save room for the main event. The fifth course is where decisions are to be made.
There are five vegetarian entrees among the 25 options on the menu. We opted for the laadass (lentils) and vegetable M’hammer Tajine. Our host surely saw my wide eyes as I considered the enormous bowl of slow cooked lentils. I was promptly presented a spoon because, let’s face it, hot lentils would be extremely difficult to eat with the fingers. I used the spoon to dig into the legumes, simmered in a smoky paprika sauce with onions and tomato. A bit salty, I began to mix the two mains. The lentils loaded on the large spoon with the potatoes, carrots, zucchini and olives made for – dare I say it – the perfect bite: braised vegetables have a sweetness that contrasts well with simmered spices.
Tajine Alami serves solidly prepared, traditional Moroccan food that is packed with spices and seasonings that bring out the best in simple legumes and vegetables. But don’t just go for the food. Go for the experience of slipping off your shoes, curling up on a cushion and being entertained by the food, music and, if you time your visit just right, the belly dancer.
Source: gazette.com