Loading ...A Dream Comes True: Xi’an and Its Historic Silk Route
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
For years as I roamed through the countries of Asia, I often dreamt of the historic Silk Route. Once carrying the goods from China to the Mediterranean coast and back, it had a great hand in the formation of the kitchens in that part of the world.
Situated strategically at the crossroads of the routes crossing China and Central Asia, the city of Xi’an, was the first stop on the famous Silk and from here, caravans began their journeys westward, then returned bringing back with them the foods of India, Persia, the Arab world and beyond. Much of these culinary delights of Asia and the Middle East were incorporated into the Xi’an kitchen, creating a unique and tasty cuisine.
Now as explored he city of Xi’an, China’s metropolis of history, I felt that my dreams of touring a part of the Silk Route while glorying in the food of China was about to be fulfilled. As we uncovered the city, I felt elated and content. Xi’an was a treasure-house of historic remains. With a history going back some 3,000 years it became in ancient times very wealthy, becoming known as the ‘Golden City’. Serving as the capital of China for 13 Dynasties, it became a thriving trading and religious centre. All these activities for centuries have left their mark on the city. Mosques, pagodas, palaces, and especially the emperors’ mausoleums in Xi’an and its environs have made it a tourist Shangri-la.
At the top of all these historic treasures in this city of 6 million, is its Terra Cotta army created by one of China’s most renowned emperors, Qin Shi Huang, who believed it would protect him for eternity. This great archaeological treasure, one of the most sensational finds of all times in China’s long and illustrious history, is an amazing memento to China’s past.
One of the most important of China’s emperors, his rule became a landmark in Chinese history. He is credited with standardizing the Chinese script, establishing a unified weight system, replacing hereditary rulers with a centrally appointed administrative system, instituting agricultural reform, and uniting the country by building over 6,000 miles (9,660 km) of roads and 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of canals. Also, he joined previously built defence ramparts to form the first Great Wall of China. However, enshrining his name forever is his Terra Cotta army, which his admirers fondly call the 8th wonder of the world.
These clay warriors rank with the Great Wall as one of China’s most important historic sites. Stunning and eye-boggling, the more than 2,200-year-old Terra Cotta soldiers with their chariots, horses and weapons are, without doubt, one of the world’s great wonders, reflecting the pomp and glory of the times. Meant to accompany their Emperor after death, the more than 7,000 life-size clay soldiers, with their battle gear, marshalled in combat formation, ready for battle, give us a glance at one of China’s greatest wonders.
Not as important as the clay warriors, but very impressive are the 600-year-old 14 km (9 mi) city walls, constructed by piling up the soil dug up from the surrounding moat and facing it with bricks. The best-preserved old city walls in China, standing 12m (39 ft) high, they were once topped by 98 towers, 20 of which remain – the most notable being the Bell, Drum and South Gate towers.
Another interesting side on the edge of town is the Pan Po Neolithic village, dating back to 4500 B.C. The site has yielded 45 homes, six pottery kilns, 200 storage pits, 250 tombs and 10,000 tools. A Disney-style village has been erected on the site to give visitors an idea of how the original town was at the dawn of civilization.
For travellers, an exciting end to their exploration of Xi’an is the Muslim Quarter. In this historic and romantic section, filled with fine eating places serving delicious Muslim food, one can stroll and shop for interesting traditional souvenirs while enjoying the aura of this Chinese-Muslim area.
After exploring this exotic quarter, I ended my day at the Tongshengxiang Restaurant. As I relished my Niuyangroupaomo (steamed bun soaking in mutton soup), the famous dish for which Xi’an is known.
On the first evening that we were in Xi’an, the city that gave birth to China, we decided to try the epitome of the city’s renowned cuisine. Now seated in the Great Opera Theatre, we anxiously waited for our meal to begin. Soon our waiter was bringing in dish after dish of steamed jiaozis (dumplings) in all shapes and forms, served from bamboo trays.
As we relished our seemingly never-ending Jiaozis, I could not believe the variety served – 16 types are usually offered as appetizers with a meal but, at times, 800 are served at a feast. All were delicious, delicate, and inviting in appearance. They came in countless shapes such as avocados, chicken, cauliflowers, crabs, ducks, and endless other versions with each form reflecting the filling.
The Jiaozis were still coming when a show, which out to be fantastic, began. The food had been heavenly, but what followed was a real competition. The stunning costumes, music, songs, and dances of the performers reflected those of the Tang Dynasty that are said to be the best in China. To me, they seemed to be the most delightful in the world. I was overwhelmed by their beauty, delicacy, and splendour of performance. I can honestly say that the show was the icing that topped our superb dinner.
My visit to Xi’an cemented the idea of one day writing a cookbook about the foods of Asia. Back home, I put together all the notes that I had gathered throughout my trips to the Asian continent, more specifically the Far East and Middle East resulting in my cookbook Asian Cooking Made Simple: A Culinary Journey Along the Silk Road and Beyond (Helena, MT: Sweetgrass Books, 2014). My goal was to offer some of Asia’s best dishes with recipes that although simple to follow, carry the authentic flavours and scents of Asia’s cuisines.